When buying a suit, most people will probably focus on the outer layer, as that is what is seen and therefore naturally important.
However, what lies underneath is at least as important, as it is the jacket's "skeleton" and therefore what holds the suit together.
Most people may have heard of Semi-canvas/Full Canvas, which is usually made of horsehair mixed with other natural materials such as linen, cotton or wool.
Not everyone knows what it actually means??
Canvas interlining made of horsehair (in rare cases camel hair) is absolutely the best, especially if it is sewn in (as in the picture), as it then goes around the lapel and thereby creates that "soft" roll (excuse the technical jargon).
But horsehair canvas interlining is particularly relevant for the jacket's ability to adapt to your body as it is very flexible, and over time takes on the same shape as your body. A bit like a good pair of shoes that are best once broken in.
In semi-Canvas, the interlining is in the chest and shoulder; when you choose Full Canvas, the interlining is throughout the entire front piece of the jacket. Most people are perfectly happy with Semi-canvas, as it is most important where the jacket sits close to the body.
Unfortunately, not all suits are made with sewn-in horsehair interlining. You will probably be surprised by how many of the "well-known" brands cut corners on the craftsmanship, as the customer cannot see it anyway (when buying). Therefore, they choose the cheaper but also inferior solution, which is a piece of polyester, often in the form of fusible interlining, which melts when heated and is then glued in.
With this solution, you have no flexibility in the material, and therefore no ability to adapt to your body. Furthermore, polyester is very poor at regulating temperature, which means you cannot get rid of excess body heat. The poor properties unfortunately do not stop here, as the glue often dissolves over time when exposed to heat, cleaning, or moisture and therefore comes undone. This can be seen on the outside in the form of small "bubbles" in the fabric, and simply does not look very good.
Our clear recommendation is therefore to spend a little more money on a quality suit. No one expects you to understand this when you are in a buying situation, and you should therefore ask the experts who help you in the process.
If they cannot answer questions about this accurately, are you perhaps in the wrong store?
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